Sweeney Ridge is a quick drive from San Francisco, and the payback for climbing to the ridge is a good one: incomparable views of Montara Mountain, the Pacific Ocean, and the San Francisco Watershed, including San Andreas Lake. The Ridge Trail Council has finally extended the Bay Area Ridge Trail through the watershed all the way to CA 92 (access through docent-lead hikes only).
      If you're a history buff, visit the Portola Discovery Site, where in 1769 a group of Spaniards became the first Europeans to see the San Francisco Bay. A Nike missile site sprawls along the side of the Sweeney Ridge Trail to the north of the discovery site, giving silent testimony about the military build up during the cold war.
     Spring wildflowers are amazing along the Sneath Lane Trail, when a great variety of plants grow throughout the coastal scrub. On one March day I identified willow, eucalyptus, creambush, ceanothus, sticky monkeyflower, milkmaids, vetch, lupine, mule ear sunflowers, strawberry, thimbleberry, blackberry, pink flowering currant, gooseberry, wild radish, Douglas iris, columbine, cow parsnip, manroot, wild carrot, fennel, California buttercup, California coffeeberry, toyon, cotoneaster, California sagebrush, horsetail, teasel, bindweed, hound's tongue, woodland star, fringecups, beeplant, nightshade, suncups, coyote brush, elderberry, goldenfields, checker-bloom, twinberry, paintbrush, California poppy, and (or course) poison oak. All this on hillsides that from a distance, are a uniform carpet of green.
      Any calm, clear day is a good time to visit Sweeney Ridge. It's often windy on the ridge, and take  it from someone who knows, fog can whip in and obscure the landscape (as well as the trail) in minutes. Bring layers of clothing, respect changing weather, and be prepared to descend to the trailhead if need be.
     Currently there are no loop options, but there are 2 other trailheads, for a variety of out-and-back hikes. You can start out at Skyline College and hike south on Sweeney Ridge Trail, or begin at Shelldance Nursery, near CA 1, and climb to the ridge on the Mori Ridge Trail. From the Sneath Lane Trailhead, all hikes include a climb to the ridgeline on the paved Sneath Lane Trail. From the ridge, you can extend your hike to the north or south on the Sweeney Ridge Trail.
     For the featured hike, start from the gate at the end of Sneath Lane. The trail (a paved road, really) initially cuts through a damp flat area, with shrubby dogwoods and willows on both sides. A locked gate heads left toward San Andreas Lake. Passing beneath some eucalyptus, the trail begins a climb along the edge of a coastal scrub-covered hillside. Almost right away when you look to the left you'll get a glimpse of the off-limits-to-the-public San Andreas Lake. In the spring, on the sides of the trail, you may see yellow sticky monkeyflower, purple Douglas iris, and blue ceanothus. Coyote brush is a constant companion during the climb. In the damp seeps where creeks trickle downhill, cow parsnip and elderberry trees flourish. On the right side of the Sneath Lane Trail, strawberry and columbine cling to the rock face in sections. Fringecups and woodland star shoot up from the ground. White milkmaids are among the first wildflowers to bloom in the bay area, and as the blooms "age," they take on a light pink or purplish hue. The trail's grade is manageable, but keep alert for cyclists zooming downhill. Dogwalkers and joggers are also make good use of the trail. A yellow line appears in the middle of the road shortly before the trail makes a sweeping curve to the right. The  line is to help hikers and cyclists returning downhill in the fog. After a short steep stretch, the trail levels out a bit. Look to the east for a view of San Bruno Mountain and San Francisco Airport. Eucalyptus trees edge near the road, and a water tank is visible uphill on the ridge. As Sneath Lane Trail climbs, more moisture-loving plants appear, such as thimbleberry and horsetail. During the winter, a pink-flowering currant bush shoots out bright blossoms near a stream. At 1.66 miles, Sneath Lane Trail crests and meets Sweeney Ridge Trail at a signed junction. The trail north (to the right) is paved as far as the Nike site. To the south (left) the trail is dirt. Off the side of the trail behind and to the west of the Bay Area Ridge Trail signpost, there's a rustic bench with a great view of the ocean, Pacifica, and Montara Mountain. Coyote brush dominates the landscape, but in early spring you might also see yellow sorrel, orange California poppies, and yellow California buttercups. A bit later, around Easter, goldenfields appear. Turn left and then look for a signed path that veers to the left. Walk a few feet on this path to the Discovery Site.
      A rock monument marks the momentous revelation of San Francisco Bay (guess it wasn't foggy that day!). Perhaps of more interest to the hiker is the other monument, with a neat mountain finder. Etched into the rock are the major mountains of the bay area, and they are oriented so as you look at each mountain etching you stand facing the actual location of that mountain. If it's clear you can see some of them, but on foggy or hazy days you'll be out of luck. (If you're ready to turn back now, retrace your steps to the Sneath Lane Trail and descend to the trailhead.) Return to Sweeney Ridge Trail, and continue hiking south.
      The wide, multi-use trail keeps a mostly level grade. Baquiano Trail departs on the right at 1.76 miles. Remain on Sweeney Ridge Trail. Coyote brush, golden yarrow, and California coffeeberry are common, and you may also see ceanothus (most conspicuous in early spring), Oregon grape, twinberry, sagebrush, and even huckleberry. In spring, look for iris, mission bells, blue-eyed grass, goldenfields, poppies, sunflowers, tidytips, and wallflower. At 2.2 miles, signed Sweeney Horse Trail heads off to the right. Stay on Sweeney Ridge Trail. At 2.73 miles, Sweeney Meadow Trail feeds in from the left, and Portola Gate is visible. Sweeney Meadow and Horse trails make a nice alternate loop for the return leg of the hike, but the trails are sometimes overgrown and swampy in winter and spring. At 2.83 miles you'll reach the turn around point, and fenced border with water district lands. Retrace your steps back to the trailhead.

Total distance : 5.66 miles
Last hiked : Tuesday, November 15, 2011

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