Portola
Redwoods State Park/
Pescadero Creek County Park,
California State Parks/
San Mateo County Parks,
San Mateo County
In brief:
5 mile loop through mixed woods, crosses Pescadero Creek several times.
Getting there:
From Interstate 280 in San Mateo County, exit #25 Woodside Road/CA 84. Drive
west about 6 miles to the junction with CA 35 (Skyline Boulevard). Turn left
and drive south about 7 miles to the junction with Alpine Road. Turn right and
drive west about 3 tortuous and winding miles on this narrow road (be especially
careful for bicycle and motorcycle traffic on weekends). Turn left onto Portola
State Park Road, and drive on the tiny and unpredictable road the remaining
3 miles to the entrance kiosk. Continue another 0.4 mile to the parking areas
near the ranger station. If possible park in the Madrone lot (to the left just
before the ranger station), or in the spots past the ranger station and across
the bridge, on the right side of the road. (NOTE: do not be confused or tempted
by the Alpine Road exit on 280. That section of Alpine Road deadends east of
Skyline Boulevard.)
Trailhead details:
$6 entrance fee (self-register at ranger station if facilities are unstaffed).
Restrooms behind and to the left of the ranger station. Maps available (for
$2) at the entry kiosk (when staffed), or at the ranger station. There is plenty
of parking. Pay phone at ranger station. There are a few designated handicapped
parking spots throughout the park, but Portola's trails are not well-suited
to wheelchairs. There is no direct public transportation to this park.
Gas, food, and lodging:
Gas, stores, and restaurants either back at the junction of 84 and 35, or west
in Pescadero. Portola has walk-in, tent, and RV campsites.
Rules:
Most trails are open to hikers and equestrians. Bikes are permitted on a few
trails. No dogs on trails. For day use, park is open fron 6 a.m. to sunset.
Distance, category, and difficulty:
This 5 mile loop hike is one of the easiest in the parks, where
elevation ranges from about 300 feet to just under 2000 feet. This hike begins
at about 400 feet, descends to about 350 feet, climbs gradually to about 500
feet, then descends back to the trailhead -- total elevation change is about
500 feet.
The Official Story:
CSP's
Portola page.
Park office 650-948-9098
Map Choices:
Use AAA's San Francisco Bay Region map to get there.
Download the park
map pdf from CSP's website.
60 Hikes within
60 Miles: San Francisco, by Jane Huber (yup, that's me, the creator of this
website) has a simple map and a featured hike. Order
this book from Amazon.com.
Dave Baselt's Pescadero Creek County Park/Portola Redwoods State Park
map is an excellent guide to the trails of both parks (order
from Redwood Hikes).
Afoot and Afield: San Francisco Bay Area, by David Weintraub (order
this book from Amazon.com) has a great map and descriptions of a Portola
hike.
101 Great Hikes of the San Francisco Bay Area, by
Ann Marie Brown (order
this book from Amazon.com) has a simple map and featured hike.
The paper map, available at the park, is current and very good. It also
shows the trails in Pescadero Creek County Park's eastern quadrant.
Sempervirens Fund's Trail Map of the Santa Cruz Mountains (Map 1)
is excellent.
Tom Taber's The Santa Cruz Mountains Trail Book has a simple map
and trail descriptions (order
this book from Amazon.com).
Virtualparks
has a useful map. If you run an Apple or Windows operating system, you can view
some Quicktime photos as well.
Peninsula Trails, by Jean Rusmore, has a simple map, trail descriptions,
and suggested hikes (order
this book from Amazon.com).
Portola
in a nutshell -- a printable, text-only guide to the featured hike.
View
photos from the featured hike (June 2002, including Tiptoe Falls).
View photos from the featured
hike (August 2000, excluding Tiptoe Falls)
With so much open space land
in
the south bay, it's easy to forget about the cluster of parks in southern San
Mateo County, comprised of Sam MacDonald County Park,
San Mateo County Memorial Park, Pescadero Creek
County Park, and Portola Redwoods State Park. On the northern peninsula, Purisima
Creek Redwoods Open Space Preserve, a short drive from San Francisco, is
a popular destination for viewing Sequoia sempervirens, and Santa Cruz
County's Big Basin Redwoods State Park is a well-known
redwood tourist destination. Geographically in between these two parks, Portola
State Park and the collection of San Mateo County Parks are relatively quiet.
All feature plenty of facilities (camping in Portola, picnic areas and camping
in the county parks), but away from the campgrounds and picnic tables, you're
likely find desolate redwoods groves and nearly empty trails. The partnership
between Pescadero Creek County Park and Portola Redwoods State Park is particularly
pleasant. Trails are well-signed, San Mateo County provides maps on signboards
at the borders between the two parks, and Portola's map thoughtfully includes
a large hunk of the county
park's
eastern portion (and trails). Portola, in my experience, is one of the best-staffed
state parks in the bay area. The staff takes great pride in the park, and trails
are meticulously maintained, which is all the more impressive when you consider
how this park, nestled in a canyon, gets pounded by winter storms. (Check out
their display in the Visitor Center for photos showing what a bad storm season
does to these parts.)
From this trailhead, dayhikers can explore Portola
State Park in conjunction with Pescadero Creek County Park, or stay within the
confines of the state park. Loops are possible either way. The Sequoia Nature
Trail is a short and easy self-guided nature loop through redwoods and along
Pescadero Creek, perfect for families with small kids. Peters Creek Loop, a
grueling 13-mile semi-loop hike, should provide a challenge for experienced
hikers. Slate Creek and Summit Trails make a 2.5 mile circuit through mixed
forests and chaparral, a popular choice for many park visitors. Longer and a
little tougher is the combination of Coyote Ridge Trail, Upper Coyote Ridge
Trail,
Tarwater
Loop Trail, and Pomponio Trail, an over 6 mile trek through both Portola and
Pescadero Creek parks.
Portola's strategic location allows for long backpacking
excursions as well as dayhikes. Hikers can start at Long
Ridge Open Space Preserve, on Skyline Boulevard, hike west into Portola,
camp, then hike through Pescadero Creek County Park and south into Big Basin.
Incredibly, backpackers have the ability to turn this into a loop hike; from
Big Basin you can hike uphill on the Skyline to the Sea Trail, camp in Castle
Rock, then trek north through Saratoga Gap Open Space Preserve, Upper
Stevens Creek County Park, and return to Long Ridge Open Space Preserve.
For the featured hike, start at the ranger
station. Walk to the left of the building, following the signs to Sequoia
Nature Trail. At the edge of the employee parking area, the dirt trail begins.
If you have the official map, refer to the informative section associated with
the hiking-only nature trail. Numbered posts help to identify redwood, tanoak,
and huckleberry, plants which
thrive in the park. After about 100 yards, Sequoia Nature Trail bends rights,
while a dead-end path continues straight. Stay to the right, following
the signs for Sequoia Nature Trail.
The path descends to the shore of Pescadero
Creek via a few steps. Striking sandstone banks on the opposite side of the
creek were formed by millions of years of ocean deposits. When the sun filters
down to the creek, the water turns a milky blue. Walk to the right and cross
the creek on a pretty footbridge. (Note: the park staff removes the bridges
each October and replaces them in spring when the creek's level drops. If you're
visiting in the winter, ask at the ranger station if the Sequoia Nature Trail
is navigable. If it's not, you can start on Iverson Trail which begins opposite
the Madrone parking area.) On the other side of the creek the trail passes some
azalea shrubs, then veers left and climbs some steps. Two signs point you to
the left (you can also continue straight and loop back around to the next junction).
At about 0.2 mile, at a signed junction under some tanoaks and redwoods, bear
left, following the signs that point to
Iverson
Trail.
A short segment of switchbacks raises the trail
a few feet, but then the grade levels out. Redwoods block much of the sun, but
they do nothing to discourage mosquitoes from their copious feeding frenzies
in the summer. This is one of the few parks in the bay area for which
I recommend using bug repellent. At about 0.3 mile, at another signed junction,
you'll reach a T junction. Turn right onto Iverson Trail.
Hiking-only Iverson Trail climbs then descends,
all the while under the shade of tanoak and redwood. For a few steps the path
winds at a nearly-flat pace along the forest floor. This is a beautiful, quiet
part of the park where you might see redwood sorrel, trillium, milkmaids, iris,
and starflower blooming during various times in spring. The path abruptly descends
to the banks of Pescadero Creek. Walk to the right and look for the footbridge
to cross the creek. Alders cast shadows over the clear water, while hazelnut
shrubs grow in the understory. If you are visiting in winter or early spring,
you may see steelhead in the creek. On the opposite side
of
the creek, Iverson Trail climbs away from the water on some stairs, and reenters
the redwood forest. A large fallen redwood has been notched to allow passage.
The trail ascends easily, then reaches a signed junction at about 0.7 mile.
Turn left on Pomponio Trail.
This narrow path is open to hikers only (when
it enters Pescadero Creek County Park, it becomes a multi-use trail, but as
it is effectively a dead-end trail for equestrians and cyclists, you'll probably
only encounter hikers). Pescadero Creek is occasionally audible, but Pomponio
Trail follows a discrete distance from the water. Deer are common, and you may
see or hear many of the birds that call these parks home, such as bluejays,
woodpeckers, and hawks. Huckleberry shrubs choke the trail; look for ripe berries
in September or October. A sign marks passage out of the state park and into
the county park, and then a few steps later, a signboard hosts a useful map
to Pescadero Creek County Park, on the right. More signs (facing the other direction)
indicate that bicycles and horses are not allowed on the state park's section
of Pomponio Trail. The trail
then opens up a bit, widening to fire road-width. There's plenty of room to
crane your neck up towards the towering redwoods. Honeysuckle vines drip from
tanoak, canyon live oak, Douglas fir, California bay, and madrone. Toyon, huckleberry,
ferns, ceanothus, creambush, and wild rose make up the understory. You might
see western heart's ease, forget-me-nots, and fairy lanterns in late May or
early June. Pomponio Trail remains nearly level throughout, with a few brief
and easy uphills, and then gently drops to a signed junction at about 1.7 miles.
Turn left onto Bridge Trail.
The broad multi-use fire road sweeps south, descending
easily to cross Pescadero Creek on a wide bridge. Bridge Trail turns away from
the creek and begins a moderate climb through redwood, bigleaf maple, Douglas
fir, and tanoak. At about 2.0 miles, Snag Trail sets out to the right at a signed
junction. Keep going straight on Bridge Trail.
Running slightly downhill along a damp-looking overgrown
meadow on the right, Bridge Trail continues through redwood and Douglas
fir,
ending
at a signed junction at about 2.3 miles. Turn left on Old Haul Road.
Old Haul Road, open to hikers, equestrians, and
cyclists, is a wide dirt fire road. A steep hillside on the right ascends to
a ridgeline, at about 2000 feet, but the nearly level trail cuts through Douglas
fir, huckleberry, creambush, tanoak, and redwood, on the high south bank of
Pescadero Creek. You might see ceanothus in bloom all the way into early June.
A few steps after passing over Hooker Creek, which runs downhill and joins Pescadero
Creek, you'll reach a signed junction with hiking-only Ridge Trail (this is
a possible option to extend this hike, with significant elevation change), which
starts here and heads south toward Big Basin. Continue straight on Old Haul
Road.
The trail passes through a stretch with erosive sandy
soil. Some stunted redwoods cling to the side of a roadcut. Other creeks and
seasonal streams trickle downhill from the right. The largest, Fall Creek, is
responsible for lovely Tiptoe Falls -- you'll likely hear the water spilling
downhill on the left.
Iverson
Creek is crossed just before 2 signed junctions at about 3.6 miles (Portola
Trail returns from the ridge on the right). Turn left down the service road,
reentering Portola State Park.
The dirt road (closed to horses), starts a somewhat
steep drop to the north. Before the descent gets bothersome, to the left Iverson
Trail begins at a signed junction at about 3.7 miles. In August of 2000 this
entrance was signed as closed, due to downed trees .5 mile in. When I returned
in June 2002, the trail was not blocked off, but there was a major obstacle
at that slide spot, and the trail was signed as closed coming the other direction
at that area. (Ask at the ranger station for the current status of the trail.
If this part of Iverson Trail is closed you can reach Tiptoe Falls from the
trail's other end. The route as I found it is far below decent standards, but
still manageable. Use your best judgment if it seems dodgy to you. If the trail
is closed, return to the trailhead via the service road.) Turn left onto
Iverson Trail.
The narrow path drops on a
short
flight of stairs and crosses a creek on a bridge. A familiar assortment of tanoak,
redwood, and huckleberry shade the trail as it winds through the woods at a
mostly level pace. At the slide area, several large trees sprawled like giant
pick-up-sticks, and I couldn't even tell where the trail used to be. A path
lead to the left, and straight ahead a downed redwood stretched across the canyon,
but as that tree curved slightly left I was unable to see the end of it. After
a bit of poking around, I decided that the log was the only way to go. Its surface
was flattened a bit, and some branched had been lopped off, so I obviously wasn't
the first to walk the plank across the tree. For the most part the dropoff seemed
slight, but there was so much vegetation crowding the area that I couldn't really
tell (probably a good thing). The log broadened towards the end, and I hopped
off where a little sign (facing the other direction) proclaimed this part of
the trail closed (!). Specifics may change if the trail is rerouted, but on
my visit the trail ascended a switchback and some steps. You'll continue to
climb
easily
through the forest. A massive hedge of huckleberry towers over 6 feet on the
left. At about 4.2 miles you'll reach a signed junction. Turn left, toward
Tiptoe Falls -- just a short distance at a slight incline from the junction.
The canyon walls rise steeply up on both sides, and little Tiptoe Falls drops
a few feet down from the hillside like water into a washbasin. Five-finger ferns
and a young bigleaf maple complete the tableau. Even when I visited in June
there was some water flowing, and (weather permitting) I can't think of a nicer
place for lunch. When you're ready, retrace your steps back to the previous
junction, then continue straight.
Iverson Trail crosses Fall Creek one more time,
then the trail descends easily. Redwoods are still common, but there's quite
a bit of grass, horsetail, and ferns. The trail bisects a sloping meadow, then
reaches a signed junction at about 4.4 miles (the spur to the right is an option,
but you'll have to cross Pescadero Creek without the benefit of a bridge). Continue,
to the left, on Iverson Trail.
The trail begins to climb, weaving through redwoods.
On the right the hillside slopes sharply down to Pescadero Creek, visible at
a few places where Iverson Trail lingers near dropoffs, some of them fenced.
Watch your footing on this stretch. The trail crests, then begins to descend
at a somewhat steep pace. Abruptly, Iverson levels out, as if the descent had
never happened. At about 4.6 miles you'll reach a familiar junction, with the
path leading back to Sequioa Nature Trail heading right. Turn right and retrace
your steps back to the trailhead.
Total distance: about 4.9 miles
Last hiked: Monday, June 3, 2002
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