McNee
Ranch State Park,
California State Parks,
San Mateo County
In brief:
8 mile partial loop starts with a killer climb to the top of Montara Mountain,
but the return is all downhill.
Getting there:
From CA 1 in San Mateo County, drive about 4 miles south of the last Pacifica
traffic signal (Linda Mar). Turn left into the small parking lot (or park a little
further south in the lot on the right side of the road). The trailhead is not
well signed, and is easier to find coming north.
A couple of Pacifica locals recommend starting hikes into McNee Ranch from
Higgins Way, a dead-end street on the north slope of the mountain. Get there from
CA 1 by turning east onto Linda Mar, right onto Adobe, and finally, left onto
Higgins Way. From here a fire road ascends 3.2 miles into McNee Ranch, joining
North Peak Access Road about 2 miles from the summit. I haven't yet tried this,
but hope to soon.
Trailhead details:
Parking for about 6 cars (more in two other lots; one further south a few hundred
feet, on the right, and the other, with lots of parking, about 0.5 mile north
on the left, or west side of the road). No entrance or parking fees. Maps available
at the information signboard. There's a portable toilet about 0.3 mile from the
trailhead, near the picnic area. There is no direct public transportation to the
park, but SamTrans bus #294 stops in nearby Montara.
Gas, food, and lodging:
Gas, restaurants, and stores back in Pacifica. No camping.
Rules:
Most trails are multi-use. Two trails are designated hiking only. Dogs are permitted,
on leash only.
Distance, category, and difficulty:
This 8 mile partial loop hike is moderately strenuous, climbing
from the trailhead to North Peak on steep trails, with about 1800 feet in elevation
change. Trailhead elevation is about 100 feet. The park's highest (accessible)
elevation is about 1840 feet. Shorter loops are available.
The Official Story:
CSP's Montara
State Beach page (of which McNee Ranch is part).
Half Moon Bay State Beach (Ranger Station for McNee Ranch) 650-726-8820.
Map choices/more info:
Use AAA's San Francisco Bay Region map to get there.
Hiking, Bicycling, and Equestrian Trail Map of Pacifica, or Trails
of the Coastside and Northern Peninsula (map) are the best map guides to the
park (available from Pease
Press).
Afoot and Afield: San Francisco Bay Area, by David Weintraub (order
this book from Amazon.com) has a great map and descriptions of a Montara Mountain
hike.
101 Great Hikes of the San Francisco Bay Area, by Ann
Marie Brown (order
this book from Amazon.com) has a simple map and featured hike.
Tom Taber's The Santa Cruz Mountains Trail Book has a simple map
and park descriptions (order
this book from Amazon.com).
Native Plants of Montara
Mountain includes many photos of plants, and a few overhead shots of the park.
Ted Konigsmark's Geologic Trips: San Francisco and the Bay Area
includes a section on the geology of Devil's Slide/Montara Mountain (order
this book from Amazon.com).
Peninsula Trails, by Jean Rusmore, (order
this book from Amazon.com) has a simple map and trail descriptions.
View 85 photos from the featured
hike (short version: due to fog no photos of the last mile to the summit are
available)
McNee Ranch
State Park is a beautiful, scenic, and surprising park. Comprised almost entirely
of wide, multi-use fire roads, McNee Ranch lacks the facilities we expect from
most state parks. No visitor center, signposts, or restrooms (although there is
one portable toilet). It's even tough to park here! Instead of these niceties
you will find steep, tough fire roads winding through a spectacular assortment
of bay area plants, leading to a nearly 1900 foot peak with wonderful views.
Accompanying the park's rugged character is unpredictable
weather. Fog and cold temperatures blow in from the ocean with little warning.
If you go, keep an eye on the fog and bring layers of clothing. Be prepared to
cut your hike short if the weather changes.
McNee Ranch is a favorite of bay area mountain bikers.
Expect to share the trails, and stay alert for bikes blasting downhill as you
climb. Equestrians are also often seen on the trails, but usually only on weekends.
This is a park that shines in every season. Spring brings
a cavalcade of wildflowers. Connecting trails allow you to hike into neighboring
San Pedro Valley Park, where winter puts on a knockout waterfall show. During
breaks between winter
storms,
the views are often clear, with none of the fog typical encountered in summer
months. In summer and autumn, McNee Ranch is one of the best bay area parks to
visit if you're in the mood for a cool climb. Ocean breezes keep things temperate,
permitting the strenuous ascent to Montara Mountain's summit, while in the bay
area's inland region temperatures push 100 degrees.
The somewhat tough climb to North Peak gets top
billing, but there's one other hike I'll recommend at McNee Ranch. Take Gray Whale
Cove Trail north from the trailhead to the incredibly scenic rest bench facing
west. This short and easy hike is a wonderful choice when you just need a short
break from the world. Bring binoculars in the winter for whale watching.
For the featured hike, start out on the gated
(but unsigned) fire road. The wide flat gravel road (which is used as
a road, so be alert for vehicles),
lined with cypress, runs parallel to Martini Creek. At 0.21 mile, the road splits
at an undersigned junction in front of the ranger's residence. Stay to the
right on North Peak Access Road.
After a few yards, the road, open to cyclists, equestrians,
and hikers, leaves a few tall eucalyptus trees behind and enters grassland. Coyote
brush, California sagebrush, bush lupine, poison oak, and fennel are abundant.
As the steep ascent begins, the views east to the peaks greet you. Pampas grass,
an invasive non-native, rustles if there is a breeze. A few more cypress provide
occasional shade, along with some Monterey pine. Bush monkeyflower, with its cheerful
orange flowers, can been seen almost everywhere on this hike. At 0.75 mile, the
grade slacks off a bit, and Old Pedro Mountain Road heads back downhill on the
left side of the road. There is no sign, but it's an obvious junction. Continue
straight on North Peak Access Road.
The fire road curves to the right and sweeps uphill.
Poison oak accompanies California coffeeberry on the sides of the road. A unmarked
path shoots downhill
as
the fire road switchbacks left. The path, which is not shown on the map, seems
to be used primarily by cyclists. As you turn the corner on the fire road, another
bike cut is visible to the left. Occasionally paved, North Peak Access Road climbs
easily. Cypress and pines are left behind as you enter drier chaparral. A crashed
car can be seen uphill on the right side of the road. At 1.32 miles, the fire
road meets an unsigned (and not on the official map) trail. Marked by "no
bikes on trail," signposts, the path connects to Gray Whale Cove Trail. Remain
on the fire road.
Views of the ocean, and north toward San Pedro Mountain
and Devil's Slide, are awesome. Traffic noise is still audible; it will abate
as you continue uphill on the steepest portion of North Peak Access Road. You
may seen hummingbirds zipping through the sky or perched on branches of coyote
brush. Sagebrush and monkeyflower line the road, which has turned to dirt for
good. An unsigned path breaks off to the north on the left side of the trail at
1.41 miles. Continue on the fire road. A few steps later, Old Pedro Mountain
Road sets out to the left
at
an unsigned junction. Continue straight on North Peak Access Road.
There's no sugarcoating the climb: it is a relentless
grade. On the way uphill, notice the rocks exposed by the roadcut. The light tan
brown-colored sparkly stuff is granite. This section of the park is Montara Mountain
Granite, while the rocks to the north are Paleocene sediments. The two meet at
(guess where?) Devil's Slide, which is why every winter landslides occur at this
contact zone. Just before the road crosses from the south side of the ridge to
the north side, take a moment (or 5) to gaze at the peaks, and the dramatic crease
of Martini Creek dropping downhill from the ridge. The fire road levels out a
bit as you climb along the ridge. Ceanothus shrubs appear, along with California
coffeeberry, and poison oak. An unsigned path sets out on the left side of the
fire road. This overgrown and apparently unsanctioned trail heads north and connects
with Old Pedro Mountain Road.
Continue
on the fire road. San Pedro Mountain is visible to the west, and to the north
if it's clear you'll catch a view of Mount Tamalpais. On the sides of the fire
road, ferns, poison oak, creambush, coyote brush, hazelnut, thimbleberry, huckleberry,
and currant flourish. The distinctive silktassel shrub makes an occasional appearance.
The grade picks up again and manzanitas, yerba santa, and chinquapin usher you
along. At 2.53 miles, Montara Mountain Trail begins at a (finally!) signed junction
on the left side of the road. The trail heads downhill into San
Pedro Valley Park, but there is no corresponding uphill trail to create a
loop. If you happen to be hiking in late winter, a side visit to view Brooks Falls
is recommended. Continue to ascend on North Peak Access Road.
Rock formations loom off the sides of the fire road.
On two consecutive August hikes in 2000 and 2001, paintbrush, one the last lingering
"spring" wildflowers along the coast, bloomed in the chaparral. The
fire road continues to wind uphill toward the peaks.
Mount
Diablo, Sweeney Ridge, and San Francisco Bay may be visible to the east. On my
first hike here, at about 1500 feet, right at the border with San Pedro Valley
County Park, I turned around and headed back. The fog was quickly blowing east
and I didn't fancy a descent through it. (Okay, to be honest I forgot my jacket.
But by the time I descended to the picnic area, fog obscured everything above
300 feet. You probably won't get lost in the fog, but it'll be cold and you won't
see much.) On my second visit, I was prepared for the fog; good thing, because
the cold wind thickened as I continued to ascend. The grade is moderate, with
a few short steep bits, but nothing as harsh as the previous hills. Vegetation
clings to the ground, hunkered down but still surviving on the wind-whipped exposed
mountain slopes. Bare patches of granite are visible. There's another wrecked
car just off the trail on the right. At 3.54 miles, the fire road heads right,
while another access road veers left. Continue to the right. As the fire
roads draws near the park boundary,
you
might notice telephone poles and a few small buildings. When the weather permits
lingering and clear views, some clear spots along the trail make nice lunch destinations.
Of course, when it's foggy, as it was on my last hike, all views are obstructed.
At 3.71 miles, the fire road ends at a locked gate to the peninsula watershed.
Retrace your steps back to the junction with Old Pedro Mountain Road at
6.68 miles (the branch you passed way back at 0.75 mile, not the one near the
ranger residence that heads north toward San Pedro Mountain). Turn right onto
Old Pedro Mountain Road.
Pampas grass chokes the sides of the paved multi-use
trail, and watch out for poison oak, which grows with utter abandon throughout.
Landslides have eroded the trail in sections, which winds downhill almost imperceptibly.
Yet another old crashed car can be seen uphill to the right. Cypress trees line
the trail in stretches. You may see deer in the valley to the left. At 7.67 miles,
Old San Pedro Mountain Road continues downhill to the left, while a connector
to Gray Whale Cove Trail heads uphill to the right. This junction is unsigned.
(You can continue on Old Pedro Mountain Road if you want to use the primitive
picnic area or portable toilet. Remain on the trail to the previously encountered
junction with North Peak Access Road, then turn right to return to the trailhead.)
Turn right and hike uphill, and at 7.74 miles, turn left onto Gray Whale
Cove Trail. Closed to bicycles, Gray Whale Cove Trail hugs the bluff as it
descends to the south, offering sweeping views of the ocean. Fences protect against
shortcuts as the path curves downhill. Gray Whale Cove Trail reaches level ground,
then turns west and runs within a few feet of the access road. At 8.04 miles,
the trail ends at the trailhead.
Total distance: 8.04 miles
Last hiked: Monday, August 20, 2001
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