Nestled in California's oldest state park, this popular hike begins at the Big Basin park headquarters, and follows undulating Sunset Trail downhill through forested canyons to a series of three dramatic waterfalls. The return leg, a segment of Skyline to the Sea Trail, rises along murmuring creeks back to the trailhead.
      Begin on a path to the left of the Campfire Center, following the signs to Skyline to the Sea Trail. After crossing Opal Creek on a little bridge, you'll reach a T junction with Skyline to the Sea Trail. Turn right toward Dool and Sunset trails.
      At a level grade, the broad trail runs along Opal Creek, through the outskirts of the park headquarters area. Noise from vehicles and park visitors fades with each step through redwood, huckleberry, and tanoak woods. After about 0.3 mile, Skyline to the Sea continues to the north, on its way to Castle Rock State Park, but turn left, onto Dool Trail.
      The trail rises easily through the forest, then reaches a junction with Sunset Trail, at about 0.4 mile. Turn left.
      Sunset Trail begins to climb through woods where madrone are prominent. Many of the trees along the trail are charred by fire, and some of the huge redwoods have burned-out trunks. Early settlers confined poultry in these hollowed-out trees, which became known as "goose pens." At 0.9 mile, Sunset Trail crests at the junction with Middle Ridge Road. Continue across the fire road on Sunset Trail, which begins an easy descent.
      Winding down into a redwood canyon, you might see milkwort and California harebell in summer, and in a short grassy stretch, lingering blossoms of Ithuriel's spear and vetch. At 1.1 miles a connector to Skyline to the Sea departs on the left, but continue straight on Sunset Trail.
      A few coast live oaks give way to a forest dominated by redwood and tanoak. The trail ascends gently, crosses over a knoll, and drops through woods where trilliums, redwood violets, western hearts ease, and fairy lanterns bloom in spring. At West Waddell Creek, a pretty stream graced with a few big-leaf maples, the trail rises again. Timms Creek Trail begins at 3.9 miles, heading off to the left as Sunset Trail makes a sharp turn right. Timms Creek Trail, which leads to Skyline to the Sea Trail, is a good bail-out route for hikers who are ready to return to the trailhead. Continue on Sunset Trail, climbing steadily straight uphill.
      Sunset Trail crests near a huge fallen redwood, then begins to descend through very quiet woods. After crossing Berry Creek, the path ascends again, and soon steps out of the woods to bisect a swale of chaparral. Manzanita covers the chalky white hillsides to the left and right, and these low-slung evergreen shrubs, mixed through occasional knobcone pines, permit views south to the forested canyon surrounding the waterfalls. Bush poppy's cheerful yellow flowers stand out in a sea of green in early summer, preceding chamise's bloom and fruit on huckleberry shrubs. As Sunset Trail leaves the chaparral, live oaks, California nutmeg, and Douglas fir bridge the transition back into redwood and tanoak. At 5.5 miles the trail to Sunset Camp breaks off to the right -- continue straight, now on Berry Creek Falls Trail.
      The sound of water rushing, then falling, increases as the trail descends. Then, on the right, Golden Falls comes into view. A short switchback drops the trail to the side of the fall, where water slides down a sloping wall of tawny-colored sandstone. The water rushes to a second, short drop, then pools at the top of Silver Falls. As the water shoots straight down 50 feet in a single gasp, the trail clings to the side of the cliff, descending rock stairs. The guidewire on the right is essential, and take special care when the water flow is heavy, for the steps will be slippery. Berry Creek Falls Trail reaches the base of Silver Falls and then levels out and follows the creek. When the creek is low, you can jump across to the right and walk a few feet to get a close look at the fall. This interlude between waterfalls is my favorite spot on the hike -- West Berry Creek burbles along the trail and sunlight filters through redwoods to an understory of ferns, where starflower, trilliums, and redwood sorrel brighten the forest floor in spring, and butterflies float through the air in summer. Just past the confluence of West Berry and Berry creeks, the trail crosses the stream and rises to overlook the top of Berry Creek Falls, a 60-foot drop distinguished by gorgeous ferns and moss covering the rocks around the water flow. There are wonderful views to the falls as the trail descends to a viewing platform near the base of the falls -- if it's not crowded, this is an ideal location for lunch. Past the platform, the trail descends to a junction at 6.7 miles. Turn left onto Skyline to the Sea Trail.
      A bridge crosses the confluence of Berry and West Waddell creeks, then Skyline to the Sea Trail climbs somewhat sharply to a bench where there is one last view to Berry Creek Falls. I lunched here on my last hike and enjoyed the waterfall view and entertainment provided by a band of marauding steller's jays, who perched on a nearby fence hoping for breadcrumbs. Past the bench, Skyline to the Sea Trail begins a rollicking course of short ups and downs, along West Waddell Creek. Azaleas and big-leaf maples line the stream as the trail crosses the water for the south bank, where you may notice salal and wild rose in the understory of tanoak and redwood. Past some big boulders sitting in the creekbed at 7.9 miles, Timms Creek Trail crosses the creek on the left, at the confluence of West Waddell and Kelly Creek. Continue straight on Skyline to the Sea Trail, still climbing, here at a more straightforward uphill pace.
      The trail wanders through a beautiful redwood forest where clintonia, a lily with magenta flowers, blooms in late spring. Later, in summer, orchids unfurl, including the native reddish stripped and spotted corralroots, and helleborine, with purple-green flowers, an import from Eurasia. Skyline to the Sea Trail forks, with the left leg crossing the creek-either path is an option, as they both reconnect shortly.
      Past the rejoining, Skyline to the Sea Trail crosses Kelly Creek, then begins to climb out of the canyon, away from the creek. The forest remains quiet and shaded, and you might see banana slugs along the trail, particularly in cool, damp weather. At 9 miles the connector to Sunset Trail heads uphill to the left -- continue straight on Skyline to the Sea Trail.
      The ascent mellows as you reach the hike's highest elevation, over 1,300 feet. Skyline to the Sea Trail crosses Middle Ridge Fire Road at 9.5 miles, then descends through redwoods scarred by fire. At the 10.6-mile mark, bear left at a fork toward park headquarters. At 10.9 miles, you'll return to the hike's first junction. Turn right, cross Opal Creek, and return to the trailhead.

Total distance: 11 miles
Last hiked: July 3, 2003

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