Año
Nuevo State Reserve,
California State Parks,
San Mateo County
In brief:
4.1 mile loop to an elephant seal overlook, along the coast.
Getting there:
From Highway 1 in San Mateo County, turn west into the park. The entrance is 12
miles south of Pescadero Road, 3 miles south of Rossi Road, and just north of
the San Mateo/Santa Cruz County border.
Trailhead details:
Lots of parking in a paved lot. $6 day use fee. Maps, drinking water, and restrooms
at trailhead. Pay phone at entrance station. There are designated handicapped
parking spots, but trails are not well suited to wheelchairs. There is no direct
public transportation to the reserve.
Gas, food, and lodging:
Gas, stores, and restaurants north a few miles along Highway 1. At Costanoa,
on Rossi Road, you can buy great foods to go at the deli, or use a pay phone.
No camping in any of the Año Nuevo units, but you can camp at Costanoa.
Rules:
Park is open from 8 a.m. to sunset. Trails are open to hikers only. No dogs. No
food is permitted in the wildlife protection area (a good excuse for an after-hike
lunch of green chili soup at Duarte's in Pescadero). Although you can take a short
loop through the reserve's main unit year round, if you want to hike through the
wildlife protection area you can do so by permit (available the same day at the
reserve) from April to November. From December to March the protection area is
accessible only via guided docent walks, and you must pre-register.
Distance, category, and difficulty:
This 4.1 mile partial loop hike is easy, although the trails pass through
some sections of loose sand. Elevation change is minimal throughout.
The Official Story:
CSP's Año
Nuevo page
Park office 650-879-2025
Map Choices:
Use AAA's San Francisco Bay Region map to get there.
CSP's
park map (pdf)
This hike is described
and mapped in 60 Hikes within 60 Miles: San Francisco, by Jane Huber (yup,
that's me, the creator of this website). Order
this book from Amazon.com.
Trail Map of the Santa Cruz Mountains (map 2), by the Sempervirens
Fund (includes Big Basin, Butano, and Skyline-to-the Sea), is a good map to the
unit.
The Virtual
Parks website has panoramic photos and a map.
101 Great Hikes of the San Francisco Bay Area, by Ann
Marie Brown (order
this book from Amazon.com) has a simple map and featured hike.
Tom Taber's Santa Cruz Mountains Trail Book (order
this book from Amazon.com) has a simple map.
Peninsula Trails, by Jean Rusmore, Frances Spangle, and Betsy Crowder
(order
this book from Amazon.com) has a simple map and some reserve information.
Año Nuevo in
a nutshell -- a printable, text-only guide to the featured hike.
View
photos from this hike.
Año Nuevo State
Reserve
encompasses miles of San Mateo county coastline and a separate backcountry unit,
but most people know the reserve as the northern California destination
to see elephant seals. During the elephant seals' mating and birthing season,
from December to March, the only way to see the seals is on a docent-lead walk.
Reservations are hard to come by; easier if you can finagle a weekday visit. From
April to November, simply show up at the reserve headquarters and ask for a visitor
permit. Staff members can guide you to the most likely spots in the protection
area to see seals.
You can explore Año Nuevo's undeveloped coastline
north of the protected area from a string of small trailheads along CA 1, where
primitive trails wander through sand dunes to quiet beaches. The reserve also
manages a "backcountry," which stretches east uphill into the Santa
Cruz Mountains. While this unit, called Cascade Ranch,
is attached to the bulk of the reserve's coastline property,
it
feels completely separate, and possesses none of the amenities offered at the
park headquarters.
Note that once in the protection area, the trail
network is somewhat fluid. To protect the seals, some trails described below may
be closed -- follow the instructions park staff dispense. The following account
may differ slightly from conditions on the day you visit. Año Nuevo is
one of the most pristine reserves I've ever seen in the bay area, so please take
extra pains to keep it so
Begin at the southwest edge of the parking lot,
at the signed trailhead. Walk about 90 feet on Año Nuevo Point Trail,
then at a T junction, turn right.
Año Nuevo Point Trail takes a nearly
level course through coyote brush, coffeeberry, and blackberry brambles. There
are partial views south to the ocean. At .05 mile, you'll reach a signed junction
in front of a piece from the wrecked schooner Point Arena, which went down off
this coast
in 1913. Stay to the right on Año Nuevo Point Trail.
Most of the trailside vegetation is a dense thicket of
coyote brush, toyon, poison oak, grasses, and willow, but there are a few young
Douglas fir as well. Blue-eyed grass is the dominant spring flower, and in summer
you might see beeplant, sweet pea, goldenrod, and salt marsh baccharis in bloom.
The white soil of the aptly named Chalks is conspicuous on the forested hills
to the east. Beware of one solid tall hedge of poison oak, on the left. An interpretive
panel about rodents and raptors stands off the side of the trail, one of several
displays throughout the reserve. At 0.69 mile the other end of Pond Loop Trail
feeds in from the left at a signed junction. Continue straight on Año
Nuevo Point Trail.
The trail straightens out and heads for the sea.
This stretch is a good spot for bird watching -- raptors including redtail and
coopers hawks are frequently sighted, and on my April hike I saw goldfinches flitting
from bush to bush. At 0.93 mile, you'll reach the wildlife protection area, with
a staging area exhibit building and wildlife area trailhead. (If you're visiting
when the wildlife area is closed to the public, this is the turn-around point
for your hike.) Be sure to check
out
the interpretive panels which showcase the sea mammals found at Año Nuevo.
In addition to the famously protected elephant seals, California sea lions,
harbor seals, and steller sea lions visit or live in the area. Continue straight
on Año Nuevo Point Trail.
Ropes line the trail, separating visitors from a
tangle of buckwheat, willow, blackberry, coyote brush, ragwort, and yellow bush
lupine. The grade continues at a flat pace. A spotted towhee perched on a trailside
coyote bush when I headed out to the viewpoint on an April hike, and on the way
back I spyed a Bewick's wren. Look for a short spur path on the left, leading
a few feet to a lookout, where there are great views out to Año Nuevo Island.
A lighthouse and fog whistle once stood on the island, warning ships away from
the treacherous rocky coastline, but now the buildings are in ruins and the island
is home to marine mammals and seabirds. You may also notice a tiny see-through
cave under the bluff at South Point, and a collection of rocks just off the coast,
commonly populated with birds. On my autumn hike I could see a handful of harbor
seals bobbing in the water near the rocks. Continue on Año Nuevo Point
Trail.
You'll
pass a bench on the left, then walk over a brief boardwalk section. At 1.36 miles,
the trail splits at a signed junction. Stay to the right, toward the North
Point Seal Viewpoint.
With loose sand underfoot, the trail traverses
up and down a sand dune. As the trail levels out again, a path heads back
toward the South Point Seal Viewpoint, on the left at 1.54 miles. Continue
to the right. A few steps later a signed dead-end spur to Bight Beach viewpoint
heads left. (In April 2005 Bight Beach was the northern-most seal-viewing spot;
follow the ropes to whatever area is open.) Continue straight.
The trail crosses a closed boardwalk. On my visit
animal prints and scat were visible on the firmer stretches of sand, and northern
harriers soared overhead. Ragwort, silvery beachweed, coyote brush, willow, searocket,
yellow bush lupine, beach primrose, paintbrush, and yellow sand verbena are common
along the trail. You may hear the elephant seals' distinctive vocalizations (kind
of like the competitive deep drawn-out belly burps of teenage boys), a sure sign
that seals are not far away. At 1.87 miles turn left at a signed viewpoint
junction.
The
path ends after a few feet, offering sweeping views to Año Nuevo Island
and North Point. Return to Año Nuevo Point Trail and turn left.
On a clear day you might see Pigeon Point lighthouse
winking to the north. The trail curves left and ends finally, at 2.07 miles, at
the edge of a short bluff. Off to the right on a sandy beach below North Point,
I could plainly see about 60 juvenile male elephant seals dozing. On my visit
docent John was on duty -- answering visitors' questions about elephant seals,
and positioning a viewing scope. A few seals were romping together in the water,
building callouses on their chest for the fierce competition of mating season,
which generally begins in December. Pups are born in January, and adult females
leave by mid-March, on their way to feed in the sea between the California coast
and Hawaii. Adult males, weighing nearly 2 1/2 tons, depart for coastal waters
off the northern United State and British Columbia. Seals return in spring and
summer to molt. When you're ready, retrace your steps back to the junction
with Año Nuevo Point Trail and Pond Loop Trail, at
3.46 miles. Turn right onto Pond Loop Trail.
Grass and coyote brush along the trail frame nice
views east to the Chalks and the reserve's Visitor Center, a historic barn. Pond
Loop Trail approaches a few pine trees, and then descends slightly to a signed
junction at 3.66 miles. If you'd like to return to the visitor center area via
the beach, turn right here, otherwise continue straight. Skirting the shore
of a small pond, you might notice California aster and swamp knotweed in bloom
during late summer. Pelicans are commonly spotted, either splashing about in the
pond or flying overhead. On an April hike, I saw dolphins gracefully moving through
the ocean just off the shore, and a bit further out, a group of sea otters. At
3.79 miles there's a signed junction with a trail heading south to New Years Creek
Continue on Pond Loop Trail, to the left.
The trail ascends easily, then meets Año
Nuevo Point Trail at a previously encountered junction at 3.91 miles. Bear
right. At 3.96 miles you'll return to a junction, with a path heading left
to the parking lot, but continue straight, toward the Visitor Center.
After just a few steps you'll reach a small interpretive
sign about gray whale migration. Look for whale bones on the left. Pass through
the Visitor Center, where you can view some exhibits and browse the gift shop,
then exit the building, bear left, and walk on the path back to the parking
lot.
Total distance: 4.10 miles
Last hiked: Tuesday April 5, 2005
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