Tomales
Point Trailhead,
Point Reyes National Seashore,
National Park Service,
Marin County
In brief:
Excellent ocean views and wildlife watching (lots of tule elk) on this 9.5 mile
out and back hike to the tip of Tomales Point.
Getting there:
From US 101 in Marin County, exit Sir Francis Drake/San Anselmo. Drive west on
Sir Francis Drake about 20 miles, to the junction with CA 1, turn right, drive
0.1 mile, and then turn left onto Bear Valley Road. After about 2 miles, Bear
Valley Road ends at Sir Francis Drake; turn left. Continue on Sir Francis Drake
about 5.5 miles, then turn right onto Pierce Point Road. Drive about 9 miles on
Pierce Point Road to the signed Tomales Point Trailhead, a short distance from
McClures Beach, at the end of the road.
Trailhead details:
No entrance or parking fees. Small dirt parking lot, with some overflow along
the road. No water, toilets, or designated handicapped parking. Wheelchairs may
be able to navigate a short distance on the trail, but not in or just after wet
weather. There are pit toilets down the road at the McClures Beach trailhead.
There is a map on an information signboard and a pay phone. The Bear Valley Visitor
Center (look for the sign on Bear Valley Road) has maps and drinking water. There
is no direct public transportation to this trailhead.
Gas, food, and lodging:
Pay phone, stores, and restaurants back on Sir Francis Drake in Inverness. Gas
in Point Reyes Station. There are overnight accommodations available on the eastern
fringes of the park, including a handful of motels in Inverness, and numerous
bed and breakfasts just off Sir Francis Drake. Point Reyes has several hike-in
campgrounds -- inquire at the Point Reyes Ranger Station in Bear Valley, or read
more about the options here.
No car camping in the park. Point Reyes Hostel, off Limantour Road, is an inexpensive
lodging option.
Distance, category, and difficulty:
This 9.5 mile out and back hike is moderate. Trailhead elevation
is about 300 feet, and the hike has a rolling profile, climbing to 470 feet, descending
to 135 feet, climbing to 250 feet, and dropping to 80 feet. You'll face those
same hills on the return leg, and all the elevation changes do add up. The middle
2 miles of the hike are mostly through loose sand. Total elevation change is about
1300 feet.
Rules:
Trails are open to hikers and equestrians only. No dogs.
The Official Story:
Point Reyes National Seashore
website
Bear Valley Visitor Center (Ranger Station) 415-464-5100
Map/book choices:
• Use AAA's San Francisco Bay Region map to get there.
• Download
the park map pdf from NPS
• Other
Point Reyes maps from NPS
• 
This hike is
described and mapped in 60 Hikes within 60 Miles: San Francisco, by Jane
Huber (yup, that's me, the creator of this website). Order
this book from Amazon.com.
• Afoot and Afield: San Francisco Bay Area, by David Weintraub (order
this book from Amazon.com) has a great map and descriptions of this hike.
• Point Reyes by Jessica Lage (order
this book from Amazon.com) has a good map and descriptions of this hike.
• Trail Map of Point Reyes National Seashore, by Tom Harrison (order
from Amazon.com)
is the best all-purpose map to Point Reyes.
• Don and Kay Martin's Point Reyes National Seashore has a good map
and trail descriptions (read
more about this book at Amazon.com).
• Hiking Marin, by Don and Kay Martin, has a good map and trail description
(order
this book from Amazon.com).
• 101 Great Hikes of the San Francisco Bay Area, by Ann
Marie Brown (order
this book from Amazon.com) has a simple map and descriptions of a featured
hike.
• North Bay Trails, by David Weintraub (read
more about this book at Amazon.com) has a good map and descriptions of this
hike.
Tomales Point in a
nutshell -- a printable, text-only guide to the featured hike.
View
photos from this hike.
The Tomales Point tule elk reserve is not only a 
great
place to watch wildlife, it's one of the quietest trails on Point Reyes. The single
trail drifts north away from the trailhead, eventually reaching Tomales Point,
nearly 5 miles from the nearest road. Squeezed on three sides by water, the only
sounds are wind, surf, and bird cries. At a bluff overlooking the ocean you can
spy on pelicans, cormorants, and seagulls, while elk bellow in the distance.
The preserve's tule elk population is rapidly expanding.
When I first hiked at Tomales Point around 1994, some days the elk were elusive,
and I scanned the hillsides with binoculars for a glimpse of them. Now, in 2002,
herds are scattered through the preserve, and on my last visit I counted 50 elk
in one group.
Hikers flock to this trail year round, and I've never
had the place to myself, even early on weekday mornings. Tomales Point may be
at its best during the clear and gentle weather of autumn and spring, but I enjoy
it in summer as well, when conditions are reliably cool. Think twice before scheduling
a hike during the rainy season, 
when
the trail gets very muddy. Note that on a windy day (and there are many of these
at Tomales Point) you'll need a warm tight-fitting hat and a jacket -- and even
then the wind can be oppressive.
Tomales Point Trail, a 4.7 mile out-and-back route,
is the only long distance option here, but you could also walk from the trailhead
to McClures Beach, an under 1 mile round trip, or cut short a Tomales Point Trail
hike wherever you choose along the way.
Start at signed Tomales Point Trail, at the west
edge of the parking lot (you could also begin with a meander through the historic
ranch buildings, to the right). The broad trail, open to hikers and equestrians,
sweeps past one of the ranch buildings, then turns right and begins to travel
north. A few cypress trees soon give way to a sparse mix of vegetation including
coyote brush, wild radish, and yellow bush lupine. You may see coyote scat along
the trail and northern harriers swooping over a ravine on the left. 
From
the west, an unsigned path feeds in, connecting to the McClures Beach trail. Although
the trail runs downslope from the ridgeline, there are still sweeping views west
and north. After about 1 mile at a level grade, Tomales Point Trail curves right
and descends to Windy Gap. This is a common elk location, and on my last visit
I counted a herd of 50 cupped in the hollow. The trail begins a long moderate
ascent, finally attaining the ridgeline. On this wind-swept peninsula the vegetation
huddles close to the ground, and coyote brush and grasses are the dominant plants
in this part of the reserve. In summer, when the multiple branches on thistle
plants mimic elk antlers, look for small white orchids called hooded lady's tresses,
nestled in the dry grass. You may notice rock formations to the left and right,
and some rocks poke through the otherwise smooth dirt trail surface. The trail
descends, slightly at first, then with more purpose. On clear days Dillon Beach
is visible to the east. At 3.18 miles you'll reach old Lower Pierce Point Ranch.
All that remains of the former settlement is a cluster of cypress and 
eucalyptus
trees. (If you're already tired this is a logical turnaround point.) At a damp
spot on the right side of the trail nettles and a small tangle of salmonberry
thrive. The trail begins to climb again, through a landscape with ever increasing
amounts of yellow bush lupine. At 3.80 miles, just past a sign pointing north
to Tomales Point, the trail shifts to a course through loose sand. The first stretch
is a slog slightly uphill, but the trail does level out somewhat, and there are
a few sections on firmer ground. Yellow bush lupine almost completely crowds the
trail in places, and elk paths do not help with navigation. Try to stay on the
ridgeline, always aiming north. If you're hiking in a group the elk herds in this
part of the reserve will probably notice your approach, bellow to warn others
in the area, and move out of the area, but if you're alone be alert for solitary
bucks roaming the hillsides -- the vegetation is over 4 feet tall in places and
the elk can be tough to spot. In late summer and early autumn these male elks
can be feisty as they hit their rutting season. To me, their vocalizations range
from sounds resembling a shrieking toddler, squeaking door, and howling power
drill. The trail crests but does not linger, and almost right away heads downhill
toward the point. Just off the coast to the left, you might notice Bird Rock,
populated with many cormorants on my visit. Look for yellow-blossomed lizardtail
and sand verbena along the trail in early summer. When the many bush lupine seed
pods dry out in late August they rustle in the wind like a rattlesnake's warning.
A buoy on Tomales Bay bobs on the water, pealing like a church bell. Finally,
at 4.78 miles, you'll reach the point. Steep, unfenced bluffs drop like a mouth
agape, straight to the sea. Be cautious at the crumbling edge. A path continues
downhill to the tip of the point, but I was content at this viewpoint -- the route
seemed precipitous at best. When you're ready retrace your steps back to the
trailhead.
Total distance: 9.56 miles
Last hiked: Monday, August 19, 2002
Go to Bay Area Hiker Home page
great
place to watch wildlife, it's one of the quietest trails on Point Reyes. The single
trail drifts north away from the trailhead, eventually reaching Tomales Point,
nearly 5 miles from the nearest road. Squeezed on three sides by water, the only
sounds are wind, surf, and bird cries. At a bluff overlooking the ocean you can
spy on pelicans, cormorants, and seagulls, while elk bellow in the distance.
when
the trail gets very muddy. Note that on a windy day (and there are many of these
at Tomales Point) you'll need a warm tight-fitting hat and a jacket -- and even
then the wind can be oppressive.
From
the west, an unsigned path feeds in, connecting to the McClures Beach trail. Although
the trail runs downslope from the ridgeline, there are still sweeping views west
and north. After about 1 mile at a level grade, Tomales Point Trail curves right
and descends to Windy Gap. This is a common elk location, and on my last visit
I counted a herd of 50 cupped in the hollow. The trail begins a long moderate
ascent, finally attaining the ridgeline. On this wind-swept peninsula the vegetation
huddles close to the ground, and coyote brush and grasses are the dominant plants
in this part of the reserve. In summer, when the multiple branches on thistle
plants mimic elk antlers, look for small white orchids called hooded lady's tresses,
nestled in the dry grass. You may notice rock formations to the left and right,
and some rocks poke through the otherwise smooth dirt trail surface. The trail
descends, slightly at first, then with more purpose. On clear days Dillon Beach
is visible to the east. At 3.18 miles you'll reach old Lower Pierce Point Ranch.
All that remains of the former settlement is a cluster of cypress and 
eucalyptus
trees. (If you're already tired this is a logical turnaround point.) At a damp
spot on the right side of the trail nettles and a small tangle of salmonberry
thrive. The trail begins to climb again, through a landscape with ever increasing
amounts of yellow bush lupine. At 3.80 miles, just past a sign pointing north
to Tomales Point, the trail shifts to a course through loose sand. The first stretch
is a slog slightly uphill, but the trail does level out somewhat, and there are
a few sections on firmer ground. Yellow bush lupine almost completely crowds the
trail in places, and elk paths do not help with navigation. Try to stay on the
ridgeline, always aiming north. If you're hiking in a group the elk herds in this
part of the reserve will probably notice your approach, bellow to warn others
in the area, and move out of the area, but if you're alone be alert for solitary
bucks roaming the hillsides -- the vegetation is over 4 feet tall in places and
the elk can be tough to spot. In late summer and early autumn these male elks
can be feisty as they hit their rutting season. To me, their vocalizations range
from sounds resembling a shrieking toddler, squeaking door, and howling power
drill. The trail crests but does not linger, and almost right away heads downhill
toward the point. Just off the coast to the left, you might notice Bird Rock,
populated with many cormorants on my visit. Look for yellow-blossomed lizardtail
and sand verbena along the trail in early summer. When the many bush lupine seed
pods dry out in late August they rustle in the wind like a rattlesnake's warning.
A buoy on Tomales Bay bobs on the water, pealing like a church bell. Finally,
at 4.78 miles, you'll reach the point. Steep, unfenced bluffs drop like a mouth
agape, straight to the sea. Be cautious at the crumbling edge. A path continues
downhill to the tip of the point, but I was content at this viewpoint -- the route
seemed precipitous at best. When you're ready retrace your steps back to the
trailhead.