Rock
Spring Trailhead, Mount Tamalpais/Marin Municipal Water District,
Marin County
In brief:
4.6 mile loop through lonely woods on Mount Tam's northern slope, with some tricky navigation.
Getting there:
From US 101 in Marin County, exit Mill Valley/Stinson Beach. Drive on Shoreline Highway to the junction with Almonte, about 1 mile. Turn left, remaining on Shoreline, and drive about 2.5 miles to the junction with Panoramic Highway. Turn right onto Panoramic and drive about 1 mile to the junction with Muir Woods Road; continue straight (right lane) to stay on Panoramic. Drive about 4 miles to the junction with Pantoll Road, then turn right onto Pantoll and drive another 1.5 miles to the Rock Spring Trailhead, which is at the junction of East and West Ridgecrest.
Trailhead details:
Large parking lot. No admission or parking fees. No maps available (there are some under glass at the information signboard, and if the ranger station at Pantoll is open, you can purchase a state park map there). Pit toilets at the edge of the lot. Pay phone at Pantoll Ranger Station, about 1.5 miles south. There is no direct public transportation to the park, but on weekends an holidays you can take Golden Gate Transit's #63 bus to the Pantoll Trailhead, and walk or ride (uphill) to the Rock Spring Trailhead: visit the Transit Info website for more details. There is no designated handicapped parking, and while trail access is not obstructed, this part of Mount Tam is not well-suited to wheelchairs.
Gas, food, and lodging:
Gas, restaurants, and stores either west at Stinson Beach, or east at Mill Valley. The only camping option in the immediate area is the Pantoll campground, a walk-in site just off the parking lot at Pantoll.
Distance, category and difficulty:
This 4.6 mile loop hike is moderate, with about 1100 feet in elevation change. Trailhead elevation is about 1970 feet. This hike climbs to about 2210 feet, descends to 1520 feet, then climbs back to 2240 feet before descending back to the trailhead. Several trails are steep, and a few have exceptionally rocky stretches. There is a long sequence of unsigned junctions, so make sure you have a good map.
Rules:
Fire roads are multi-use. The smaller trails are designated hiking only. Dogs are permitted on trails managed by the water district, but not on adjacent state park trails.
The Official Story:
MMWD's Sky Oaks Ranger Station at 415-945-1181.
MMWD recreation page
Pantoll Ranger Station 415-388-2070
Map/book choices:
• Use AAA's San Francisco Bay Region map to get there.
• Trail map from MMWD (pdf)
•
This hike is described
and mapped in 60 Hikes within 60 Miles: San Francisco (1st edition),
by Jane Huber (yup, that's me, the creator of this website). Order
this book from Amazon.com. • A Rambler's Guide to the Trails of Mt. Tamalpais and the Marin Headlands, by Olmsted & Bros. Map Co. (order this map from Amazon.com) shows all the trails of this hike.
• Afoot and Afield: San Francisco Bay Area, by David Weintraub (order this book from Amazon.com) has a great map and descriptions of a Rock Spring hike.
• Mount Tam Trail Map, published by Tom Harrison Maps (order from Tom Harrison Maps). Comparable to the Olmsted map.
• Tamalpais Trails, by Barry Spitz (order this book from Amazon.com), has a good map, but even more useful are the descriptions of trails and junctions.
• David Weintraub's North Bay Trails has some good maps, but unfortunately not all trails are identified on them (order this book from Amazon.com).
• Hiking Marin, by Don and Kay Martin, has some helpful maps which show trails and creeks (order this book from Amazon.com).
• View 80 photos from the featured hike
• View 40 photos from a shorter version of this hike
There are few nature
areas
in the bay area where a skilled hiker can get lost. The forested northern slopes
of Mount Tamalpais, managed by the Marin Municipal Water District, are scored
with a handful of hiking-only paths that are ill-signed and tough to follow.
Armed with a few maps and adequate water, these trails are not to be avoided
(except perhaps by beginning hikers and those with a poor sense of direction),
for they showcase a quiet and lonely part of Mount Tam, a side much different
from the crowded trails on other parts of the mountain.From Rock Spring trailhead you can hike in any direction for miles. Except for the shortest hikes, any substantial trek will require some uphill climbing back to the trailhead. A popular 4 mile loop combines Cataract, Laurel Dell, and Benstein Trails.
This
option explores the riparian corridor along Cataract Creek, travels through
chaparral and then ascends among the trees. Another good loop is Old Mine, Old
Stage Road, and Rock Springs, which is a near 5 mile jaunt providing great views
to the south. There are so many trails on this part of the mountain that I often
stare at the map for long periods of time, visualizing hike options. My last two hikes here were in March and May. I was shocked at the difference a few months can make. In March several trails were nearly flooded and there were hardly any wildflowers. May brought dry trails and a wild range of blooming flowers, from manzanita and zigadene to linanthus and iris. If you go in winter or early spring, prepare to slosh through some creeks.
For the featured hike, walk into the meadow and where the trail splits, bear left, onto hiking-only Cataract Trail. After only about 400 feet, Simmons Trail sets out from a signed junction on the right side of the trail. Turn right onto Simmons.
In winter you'll likely splash through a seasonal stream. The trail, open to hikers only, ascends gently through a grassy meadow where you might see linanthus, buttercups, and blue eyed grass blooming in spring.
At
0.16 mile you'll reach a signed junction, with Benstein Trail beginning on the
right. Continue straight on Simmons.The trail soon dives into the woods, following along a creek. This cool stretch cuts through a forest dominated by Douglas fir and tanoak. A fallen redwood has left bright red tree crumbs across the path. Large ferns and moss-covered rocks line the shores of Ziesche Creek. A bridge crosses the creek at 0.37 mile; a tiny sign attached to it points left to "Barth's Retreat." An unsigned spur trail heads right, on the way to Benstein Trail. Continue left on Simmons Trail.
The path climbs uphill somewhat steeply. At the crest of a hill,
a
faint path cuts off the right; this meets up with the connector to Benstein
Trail. Continue straight on Simmons Trail. Abruptly, the trail leaves the trees behind and enters chaparral. Not much more than a faint path, Simmons slips through shrubs of chamise and ceanothus and begins to climb. The trail, which resembles a rain run-off channel, is very narrow and rocky. At a small clearing where the elevation smoothes out, at 0.59 mile, trails run straight and left. The path to the left approaches a stand of sergeant cypress, which thrive in serpentine soil. Continue straight uphill.
As the rocky trail crests, chamise gives way to manzanita, and, if it's a clear day, mountains to the north (all the way to Mount St. Helena) can be glimpsed through some breaks in the tall trees. Simmons Trail squeezes through the shrubs downhill, then dodges right, into the woods. The stretch through mostly Douglas firs is brief, and soon the trail crosses a creeklet and reenters chaparral. A tall bench sits beside the trail, a good place to stop
and
refuel. At a rocky clearing the path is indistinct. Walk straight (to the
right of the rock) and pick up the trail on the other side. A few
steps later and the trail splits amidst a patch of serpentine. Stay to the
left. Manzanitas begin to fade away as taller shrubs, such as toyon, and
a few oaks encroach on the trail as it winds steeply downhill. Simmons enters
the shade of taller trees, and Barth's Retreat is visible downhill. Stay
to the right as the trail forks, then descend to a signed junction at 1.15
miles. Mickey O'Brien Trail, to the left, follows Barth's Creek to Laurel Dell.
Cross the bridge and continue straight.The wide fire road is bordered with chaparral, including silktassel shrubs and toyon. Beyond to the right lie deep red
and green swaths of rock. The road rises and crests at a signed junction at
1.19 miles. Laurel Dell Fire Road goes west to Laurel Dell and east to Potrero
Meadows. (If you want a shorter hike, you can turn right onto Laurel Dell and
then pick up the hike where Laurel Dell runs into Rock Spring-Lagunitas Fire
Road.) Go straight onto Music Stand Trail, signed as Ben Schmidt Trail
on the Olmsted map. (NOTE: From this junction you can easily shorten this hike.
Turn right on Laurel Dell Fire Road, then turn right on Benstein and take Benstein
to Rock Spring-Lagunitas Fire Road. Turn right and follow the remaining directions
at the next to last paragraph below. This shortened hike is about 3.2 miles.)The trail is initially hard to follow as it descends through a rocky slope damp with seeps and laced with serpentine. Soon Music Stand, a hiking-only trail, enters a wood dominated by Douglas fir. As the trail runs downhill it crosses a creek several times. At an unsigned junction, at 1.38 miles, the trail splits. Go left a few steps to visit Music Camp, a small clearing dominated by a Music Stand, and decorated with trinkets and
windchimes.
This is one of those "only in the bay area" places. Ben Schmidt gathered
his friends here in the 1950's to play music. Retrace your steps back to
the junction and continue downhill on Music Stand Trail. Moisture from a trailside seep flows toward the creekbed and in winter and early spring the stream swells as the trail shrinks. Large boulders in the creekbed create cascades after heavy rains. The grade flattens a bit as the tree cover thins. You'll cross into chaparral, where fragrant pitcher sage, sticky monkeyflower, manzanita, poison oak, and ceanothus crowd the trail. Music Stand Trail crosses over to the right side of the creek and angles around a large boulder. The trail disintegrates into the creek at one point.This is not a good stretch for claustrophobics. You'll leave the chaparral to cross the creek just below a small waterfall (in wet months), and then cross again back to the left bank. Pay attention to your footing as what passes for a trail barely clings to the sloping hillside. You may
need to hang on to the trailside trees to keep from falling into the creekbed.
At 1.71 miles, Music Stand Trail ends at an unsigned junction with High Marsh
Trail. The junction is marked by a large boulder practically sitting in the
creek. The left branch of High Marsh ascends. To the right, the trail crosses
the creek and rapidly veers away from it. Turn right, onto High Marsh Trail.You'll now be walking through one of the quietest parts of the mountain. The narrow hiking-only path is well-shaded from a variety of shrubs and trees, including manzanita, madrone, Douglas fir, giant chinquapin, huckleberry, nutmeg, and California bay. In some stretches during wet months moss-covered rocks resemble a lumpy green carpet. The trees clear at one spot on the left, to give up a view north. In winter, the sound of rushing water grows stronger until you reach the falls of Swede George Creek. The trail passes right through the creekbed. Just past the waterfall, a small path doubles back to the right, and a few steps later you'll reach an unsigned junction, at 2.01 miles. The path to the left (it's called Willow on the Olmsted map, and Swede George Trail in Tamalpais Trails) drops downhill to Willow Meadow. Stay to the right on High Marsh Trail as it climbs
uphill.
Iris are common along the trail in May. High Marsh Trail levels out and squeezes through some madrone. At 2.21 miles, you'll finally reach a signed junction, on the right shore of a small swampy pond. Cross Country Boys Trail departs to the right (this is an optional route, as the featured hike crosses this trail again later). Continue straight/left on High Marsh Trail.
In winter, the trail can hold as much water as a small stream. For a while, thankfully, the grade is nearly level. At 2.42 miles, High Marsh Trail ends at a signed junction. To the left, Kent Trail descends on its way to the shores of Alpine Lake. On the right, Kent Trail climbs to Potrero Meadows (this section is also an option; you can hike on Kent to Cross Country Boys Trail, and then take Cross Country Boys Trail to the junction with Azalea Meadow Trail). Continue straight, now on Azalea Meadow Trail.
The hiking-only trail ducks under a low arching madrone. A few steps later, the path becomes hard to follow. Cross the first creek just below a little cascade, and on the opposite bank the trail becomes clear again,
but
then Azalea Meadow Trail enters a confusing flat area prone to flooding in winter
and early spring. You may have to scramble over some downed tree limbs to get
back on the obvious trail, which climbs along the right bank of the creek. Once
this navigation challenge is over, following the trail the rest of the way is
easy. Ascending along the East Fork of Swede George Creek, Azalea Meadow Trail
climbs, sometimes steeply, through a sparse understory of fern, creambush, and
occasional huckleberry thickets. In winter moss grows on just about everything
alongside the creek, with trees and rocks wearing thick, furry green coats.
Douglas fir, tanoak, live oak, and madrone tower above. At 2.97 miles, Azalea
Meadow Trail meets Cross Country Boys Trail at a signed two-part junction. This
clearing, a few steps from Azalea Flat (or meadow), is a good spot for a water
break. As you continue uphill, the other branch of the Cross Country Boys Trail
departs to the right. Keep going uphill on Azalea Meadow Trail. The grade picks up and this last stretch of Azalea Trail is a bit taxing.
At
3.27 miles, Azalea Meadow Trail ends at an unsigned junction with Rock Spring-Lagunitas
Fire Road. The Rifle Camp site is across the road; picnic tables provide a flat
spot for checking the map. Turn right onto Rock Spring-Lagunitas Fire Road.This broad multi-use fire road sweeps up to the edge of Potrero Meadows. A trail, signed "to picnic area," cuts across the meadow at 3.37 miles, but continue left on Rock Spring-Lagunitas Fire Road, as the path edges levelly around the meadow. Buttercups, baby blue eyes, false lupine, goldenfields, linanthus, and California poppy bloom along the trail in May. At 3.50 miles, Laurel Dell Fire Road begins on the right, at a signed junction. Keep going straight on Rock Spring-Lagunitas.
As the fire road leaves the meadow behind, it begins to climb at a moderate grade through a mixture of coast live oak, tanoak, madrone, and California bay. Benstein Trail joins with the fire road at 3.84 miles, then breaks off to the right at 3.94 miles, marked by a signpost. Turn right onto Benstein.
This is a wonderful segment of trail, impeccably maintained, through a mixture of woods and grassland. Switchbacks wind easily downhill through madrone and oaks. Two bridges constructed in 2000 (installed by the TCC) ford streams. At 4.22 miles, the trail splits at a signed junction. The left path continues across Ridgecrest to the Mountain Theater. Bear right toward Rock Spring.
The path is pure delight, as it skips down some stairs and passes under oaks and a large madrone. A switchback shepherds the trail gently downhill. Passing through a rocky patch, steps are made from large stones. Look for calypso orchids in late winter. Benstein Trail ends at 4.46 miles, at the previously encountered junction with Simmons Trail. Turn left onto the Simmons Trail and retrace your steps back to the trailhead.
Total distance: 4.63 miles (feels like more)
Last hiked: Thursday, February 27, 2003
