Mountain
Home-Muir
Woods Loop,
Mountain Home Trailhead,
Mount Tamalpais State Park/Muir Woods, National
Monument,
California State Parks/National Park Service,
Marin County
In brief:
4.7 mile loop through Mount Tamalpais State Park and Muir Woods.
Getting there:
From US 101 in Marin County, exit CA 1/Stinson Beach. Drive north on Shoreline
Highway about 1 mile to the junction with Almonte. Turn left to stay on Shoreline/CA
1 and drive about 2.5 miles to the junction with Panoramic. Turn right onto Panoramic
and drive about 1 mile to the junction with Muir Woods Road; continue straight
(right lane) to stay on Panoramic. Continue about 1.5 miles more, then turn
left into the parking lot across the street from the Mountain Home Inn.
Trailhead details:
Parking for 26 cars. Two pits toilets. No entrance or parking fees.
Drinking fountain and pay phone in lot. Maps are available at the Pantoll Ranger
Station, about 3.5 miles further uphill on Panoramic. No designated handicapped
parking, and trails are not wheelchair accessible. West
Marin Stagecoach offers public transportation to this trailhead.
Gas, food, and lodging:
Nearest gas is in Mill Valley -- stop on the way to the trailhead at one of the
gas stations at Tam Junction, the intersection of Shoreline/CA 1 and Almonte.
Tam Junction also hosts a number of restaurants and a supermarket. Mountain Home
Inn is directly across the street from the trailhead, and is an option for an
after-hike lunch, or an overnight stay. No camping in Muir Woods; Mt. Tam State
Park's Pantoll campground has walk in sites.
Distance, category, and difficulty:
This 4.7 mile loop hike is moderately easy, with about 1100 feet
in elevation change. Trailhead elevation is around 925 feet. The featured hike's
high point is around 1050 feet, and the hike drops to about 200 feet, then climbs
back to the trailhead. The descending/ascending trails are moderately steep.
Rules:
Some trails are multi-use, but most are hiking only. Horses are permitted on some
trails. Dogs are not permitted on this hike: they are not allowed in Muir Woods
or in the State Park.
The Official Story:
CSP's Mount
Tamalpais page.
NPS's Muir Woods page.
Pantoll Ranger Station 415-388-2070
Muir Woods Visitor Center 415-388-2595/2596
Map/book choices:
Use AAA's San Francisco Bay Region map to get there.
Map
from NPS (download Muir Woods trail map pdf).
Download the park
map pdf from CSP's website.
This hike is described
and mapped in 60 Hikes within 60 Miles: San Francisco, by Jane Huber (yup,
that's me, the creator of this website). Order
this book from Amazon.com.
Dave Baselt's Muir Woods map is an excellent guide to Muir Woods
and surrounding parklands (order
from Redwood Hikes). It even includes the numbers of steps on such segments
as Lost Trail.
Olmsted Brothers map, A Rambler's Guide to the Trails of Mount Tamalpais
and the Marin Headlands (order
this map from Amazon.com), is a classic.
Mount Tam Trail Map, published by Tom Harrison Maps (order
from Tom Harrison Maps), is comparable to the Olmsted map.
The map and text in Barry Spitz's Tamalpais Trails (order
this book from Amazon.com) is helpful.
There's a useful map and trail descriptions in Don and Kay Martin's Hiking
Marin (order
this book from Amazon.com).
Troop 80/Bootjack/Lost
Trail loop in a nutshell -- a printable, text-only guide to the featured
hike.
View photos from the featured
hike.
The
Mountain
Home Trailhead is one of the back doors to Muir Woods, as well as one of the
easiest trailheads to reach on Mount Tam. With space for 26 cars, you will
probably have your choice of parking spots, at least until around noon, when the
lot fills up. From this trailhead you can create a variety of loop hikes. To
trek through the lovely chaparral of the Tam's south slope, cross the street and
head uphill on Gravity Car Grade, or Hogback Trail. Gravity Car Grade meets up
with the Old Railroad Grade, which climbs to Ridgecrest Boulevard between the
Middle and East Peaks. Or combine any of these three trails: Troop
80 Trail, Matt Davis Trail, and Old Stage Road. Matt Davis Trail is narrow
and follows the contour of the slope from Hogback Trail to Bootjack Trail (it
continues all the way to Stinson Beach). Old Stage Road is broad and offers
great views to the east and south. Troop 80 Trail is described in this featured
hike. Note about maps: For this featured hike, the map from NPS is sufficient,
but it only shows trails south of Panoramic, so if you intend
to hike any of the other suggested loops, you will need one of the commercial
maps recommended above.
Although Muir Woods is busy with tourist once Memorial
Day rolls around, I enjoy this hike in the late spring, when the creeks still
have enough water for falls, and chamise, bush poppy, and chaparral pea contribute
beautiful blossoms and sweet smells at this time of year. Winter hikes can be
challenging, for storms often toss down huge trees along Bootjack Trail, and rain-slicked
rocks are not fun to descend upon. Blushing big leaf maples are breathtaking in
autumn, and although it's often hot, most of this hike takes place under shade
of evergreen trees.
For this featured hike, walk to the north end of the
parking lot and look
for a small trail on the left side of the road (there's a brown Mount
Tam parks sign which is tough to see unless you're across the street). Turn
left onto the Trestle Trail.
Walk down the stairs, and after about 65 feet, Trestle
Trail ends at Camp Eastwood Road. Turn right onto this paved road which
accesses Camp Alice Eastwood, a group camping spot managed by Mount Tamalpais
State Park. The road descends though broom (a nonnative pest plant), chamise,
coyote brush, California bay, Douglas fir, yerba santa, sticky monkeyflower, toyon,
manzanita, ceanothus, silk-tassel, and redwood. In spring, look for the bright
yellow flowers of bush poppy, and the purple blossoms of chaparral pea. The trail
dips under shade of tall redwoods and Douglas fir, and makes a sharp turn left
before crossing Fern Creek. At 0.44 mile, Troop 80 Trail begins on the right.
Turn right.
According to
Gerald
Olmsted's notes on the Trails of Mount Tamalpais... map, Troop 80 Trail
was built in 1931 by the Ingleside San Francisco Boy Scout Troop and later spruced
up by the TCC (Tamalpais Conservation Club). It's a small, intimate, hiking-only
trail with the disadvantage of running along Panoramic Highway, so it can be noisy. With
the trail's many switchbacks, climbing is minimal. Young, densely-packed redwoods
shut out most of the sunlight as the trail winds through the trees like a skier
on a slalom course. Tanoak and Douglas fir are also present. Occasionally
Troop 80 Trail breaks out of the woods to pass through dense clumps of chaparral,
affording views of the tree-covered hillsides to the south and west. Keep
an eye out for huckleberries and manzanita berries in late summer. Creambush,
hazelnut, chamise, toyon, pitcher sage, chaparral pea,
honeysuckle, coffeeberry, and chinquapin occupy the shaded understory and sunny
patches along the trail. At 0.87 mile, Sierra Trail crosses Troop 80 Trail at
a signed junction just before a bridge. Continue straight on Troop 80 Trail.
The trail crosses over creeks and damp seeps via
several bridges and elevated walkways. An old pipe sticks up through the
dirt at spots. Portions of Troop 80 Trail cut through Marin Municipal Water
District land, but there's no real difference in trail quality. At 1.78 miles,
a signed junction offers a choice between the Troop 80 Spur Trail to Van Wyck
Meadow (straight), or Troop 80 Trail to Bootjack (up the stairs to the right). Continue
straight.
False lupine grows in thick clusters on the left
side of the trail, blooming in spring. At 1.86 miles you'll enter Van Wyck Meadow,
dominated by a huge rock and the whimsical sign, "Population 3 Stellar Jays". Trees
at the west edge of the meadow provides shade and a nice rest spot. Walk to
the meadow's southeast corner and begin a descent on signed Bootjack Trail.
Steep steps bring the hiking-only trail close
to a creek rushing or trickling (depending on the season) down
the mountain. Douglas fir, redwood, and tanoak heavily shade the narrow trail.
Bootjack Trail accompanies the creek for a while, beginning a sharp descent into
the Muir Woods valley. The trail does have a few level stretches, one with
a bench marking the next segment of knee-aching descent. The rocky trail demands
all your attention; a moment of daydreaming could easily cause a stumble or fall.
Further down the trail, maples drop their golden leaves in autumn, thimbleberry
bushes line the creek in summer, and a variety of ferns flourish on the shady
slopes. Look for starflower and trillium in spring.
The
trail squeezes through some trees and ducks under others. After curving to
the left Bootjack Trail drops dramatically to a bridge at the crossing of Rattlesnake
Creek. This bridge uses a huge rock as a support in the middle. As you get
closer to the valley floor redwoods begin to dominate the sides of Bootjack Trail,
and the surface becomes padded with fallen needles. You'll pass a signed
spur trail to Camp Eastwood Road on the left. Suddenly the creek slows to a gentle
pace, and the trail flattens. If your knees and quadriceps stop quivering,
tell them the descent is over (just don't let your other leg muscles overhear
the ascent you have in store for them). By now you'll likely notice an increase
in trail traffic, and as you cross from the State Park into Muir Woods, tourists
are common. I always notice that, even from a few feet away, everyone smells so
clean (or perfumed) compared to me! Bootjack Trail ends at the paved Muir
Woods Trail, at 3.05 miles. Stay to the left.
The wide trail winds through massive redwoods. Pass
the signed junction to Camp Eastwood Road, and then
turn left onto Fern Creek Trail at 3.33 miles.
If you ever get roped into playing
summer tour guide at Muir Woods, consider putting Fern Creek Trail on your
agenda. It's flat, runs along Fern Creek, and captures a bit of the quiet majesty
of Muir Woods without the wall-to-wall traffic on the main trail. Like all
trails inside Muir Woods, this one is hiking-only. One redwood on the left has
an unusual amount of burls. At 3.72 miles Lost Trail begins on the right side
of the trail. Turn right and head up the stairs.
Stairs are the key word here. Lots and lots of
stairs. Only1/2 mile long, this hiking-only trail seems a manageable climb
until you reach what I call "the grand staircase," section. Until then, a
few steps here and there, no big deal, but when you start up the staircase (you'll
know it when you reach it), the monumental climb hits you full force. Thankfully
tree
cover, courtesy of redwoods, and then further up the hill, California bay and
live oaks, keeps you cool. You might also see California nutmeg, an evergreen
easily confused with redwood. According to Barry Spitz's Tamalpais Trails,
there are almost 250 steps, and it seems like more than that (I counted 260ish,
but don't trust my oxygen-deprived brain). At 4.24 miles, Lost Trail finally
runs out of steps and ends at a signed junction with Ocean View Trail. Turn
left unto Ocean View Trail.
Narrow Ocean View Trail continues climbing, although
at a more sedate pace than Lost Trail. Before long you'll leave the tree
cover and come out into grassland. The trail curves around a boulder (the
trail seems to split, so stay to the left at the rock) and cuts through broom,
blackberry brambles, coyote brush, and chamise, as well as a few nonnative acacia.
Ocean View Trail ends at a signed junction with Panorama Trail at 4.51 miles.
Stay to the left as a spur trail cuts up to the road.
The narrow trail levelly winds through grassland.
There are nice, sweeping views west and north. At 4.67 miles, Panorama Trail ends
at Camp Eastwood Road. To get back to the parking lot and trailhead, you can either
walk down Camp Eastwood Road to the Trestle Trail and take that back to the lot,
or simply walk on the left side of Panoramic Highway for .07 mile back to the
lot.
Total distance: about
4.74 miles
Last hiked: Thursday, October 2, 2003
Go to Bay Area Hiker Home page