The preservation of Jack London's estate permits the author's admirers to tour the ranch where London lived from 1911 until his death in 1916. The property includes London's grave site, and the remains of his dream home, Wolf Ranch, which was destroyed by fire the night before London and his wife were to move in.
     With Sonoma Mountain as a backdrop, the ranch is a classic wine country landscape, and visitors can tour the developed part of the park on an afternoon's stroll. But hikers, cyclists, equestrians, and nature enthusiasts may choose to spend the hours of their visits on trails tracing the eastern flank of Sonoma Mountain, where London found "a place to get out of Nature that something which we all need, only the most of us don't know it." Pristine hillsides of madrone, Douglas fir, black oak, buckeye, and bigleaf maple, grassy meadows, and redwood filled canyons can be explored on trails both short and long, including a Bay Area Ridge Trail segment.
     Hikers can choose from a variety of out-and-back and loop trails. From the Museum parking lot, it's a 1 mile round trip to the ruins of Wolf House and London's grave site. More ambitious hikes entail a 1 mile hike through Beauty Ranch to the lake, and then a choice of loops and out-and-back treks. Quarry Trail, Mountain Trail, Vineyard Trail, Orchard Trail, and Fallen Bridge Trails can be combined for easy hikes ranging from about 2 to 6 miles. For longer, more strenuous hikes, continue uphill on Mountain Trail, and then head north toward the park summit, or south on a Bay Area Ridge Trail segment, Sonoma Ridge Trail.
     Spring and autumn are the standout seasons at Jack London State Park. In spring you can search for wildflowers in the woods and grassland, and in autumn the park's black oaks and bigleaf maples are gorgeous. Although summer temperatures soar in eastern Sonoma County, many trails are almost entirely shaded. During the wettest months of the year waterfalls and streams overflow with storm runoff, and trails can be muddy.
     Begin at the edge of the parking lot on Lake Trail, following the Bay Area Ridge Trail symbols (the equestrian segment of Lake Trail starts at the north end of the lot and emerges near the path to Pig Palace -- an optional route). The trail rises a few feet to a picnic area, then drops to a junction near Beauty Ranch's barns, on the left. Turn right.
     Lake Trail approaches London's Cottage and the winery ruins, on the left, an optional add-on. At 0.16 mile, the trail bends right and runs along a private vineyard. Eucalyptus trees and a few toyon and hawthorn shrubs line the trail on the right. At 0.21 mile, the equestrian trail feeds in from the right, then the signed path to Pig Palace departs on the right. Stay to the left on the wide fire road.
     An unsigned path veers off toward the silos, while the fire road heads west toward the forested slopes of Sonoma Mountain. Some blue and black oaks grace the right side of the trail. Continuing to follow the Bay Area Ridge Trail symbols, you'll skirt the vineyards and reach a signed junction at 0.52 mile. The gated fire road continues straight, while a hiking-only trail breaks off to the right. Turn right onto Lake Trail.
     At a slight incline the narrow path winds through a woodland of California bay, madrone, tanoak, black oak, Douglas fir, bigleaf maple, and hazelnut. Redwoods, clustered in fairy circles, are fenced for protection in sections along the trail, where trilliums are common in late winter. At 0.65 mile, you'll reach a bench and junction. Continue to the left.
     Lake Trail approaches and then runs beside the fire road for a short distance. Plunging back into the woods, the trail continues easily uphill, ending at 0.98 mile near the eastern shore of the lake. Huge black oaks tower overhead. Walk a few feet left, then turn right onto Mountain Trail, a fire road.
     After a few steps you'll reach a multiple junction. Turn right, remaining on Mountain Trail. The broad multi-use trail begins an easy climb, through a forest of redwood, bigleaf maple, madrone, California bay, and hazelnut. At the trail's first hairpin turn, Upper Lake Trail sets out on the right. Continue to the left, uphill on Mountain Trail.
     The trail ascends at an easy pace. At 1.37 miles, at another sharp corner, the trail levels out and emerges into an open area, with a grassy sloping meadow and a signed junction with Fallen Bridge Trail on the left. The views southeast are nice, but you'll get better vistas further uphill. Continue uphill on Mountain Trail.
     Back in the woods the trail ascends, maintaining an easy grade. You may see small mammal and deer footprints in the dusty trail surface. At 1.60 miles, the other end of Fallen Bridge Trail is signed on the left. Continue straight on Mountain Trail.
     In addition to the previously spotted madrone and California bay trees, Mountain Trail weaves through a forest of some large Douglas fir, Oregon oak, and buckeye. At 2.33 miles, Mountain Trail meets Sonoma Ridge Trail at a signed junction. Turn left.
     The narrow but multi-use trail, built with the assistance of many volunteers, sets off south. Sonoma Ridge Trail is gently graded and an easy ascent. With little understory vegetation, a variety of trees are conspicuous along the trail, where some giant madrones mingle with towering redwoods, Douglas fir, buckeyes, and California bay. As the trail approaches the North Fork of Asbury Creek, redwood groves linger near the streambed. The creek runs year long, and it's pleasant to hear water trickling in autumn, when everything in the area seems so dry. In this mature forest some of the deciduous trees are so tall that you may resort to identifying them by the leaves they drop in autumn. Black oak and bigleaf maple are the foliage standouts, but Oregon oaks also shed their leaves. Buckeye are a bit shorter and more showy, and grouped together along the trail the native trees may be newly leafed, flowering, or reduced to bare branches and dangling seed pods, depending on the season. On one late winter hike I enjoyed hundreds of milkmaids and hounds tongue sprinkled all along the trail. At a break in the vegetation on the left, there are views stretching across Sonoma Valley to a ridge defining the Sonoma-Napa County border. Sonoma Ridge Trail reaches its first of six switchbacks as it makes its way up the side of the mountain. Tall red-barked manzanitas are prominent near the second switchback. Where views extend to the north, you can enjoy a great view of Mount St. Helena. The trail, ever ascending, passes through more black oak, bigleaf maple, Oregon oak, and California bay. As views continue to open up, patches of grass gradually spread to occupy the understory, and tanoaks are common. The hilltop seems close but remains elusive, as Sonoma Ridge Trail stays on the eastern side of the mountain, downslope from the ridge. Black oaks, California bays, and grassland dominate the landscape. On a clear day, in some spots you may be able to see southeast all the way to Mount Diablo. At 5.3 miles, you'll reach a signed junction with Sonoma Ridge Loop Trail. Turn left.
     The multi-use trail skirts a wooded hilltop, meandering through a familiar mix of black oak, California bay, and madrone. The tree cover blocks all views. At 5.4 miles, Coon Trap Trail departs to the left. On my last hike I made a loop back to the trailhead, using Coon Trap, Orchard, and Fallen Bridge trails, but Coon Trap is very steep (dropping 1000 feet in the first mile) and not as scenic as Sonoma Ridge Trail. I don't recommend this option. Continue to the right on the loop trail.
     Ascending a bit through large and lovely black oaks, the trail draws near the property boundary to the west. At the far reaches of the park and near 2100 feet, it's disappointing that views are obscured, but the landscape is lovely.At 5.6 miles, the loop closes back at the junction with Sonoma Ridge Trail. Turn left and retrace your steps to London Lake.
     Back at the junction of Mountain Trail and Lake Trail at 9.9 miles, walk downhill on Lake Service Road, a broad fire road. At 10.34 miles, you'll reach the junction with Lake Trail. Continue straight and retrace your steps back to the trailhead.

Total distance : 10.86 miles
Last hiked : Sunday, March 3, 2013


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